Our 2009 batch of Jamnapari Kids out in one of the paddocks. Extremely friendly these bunch are.
Archive of ‘Goat Breeds’ category
In theory young Does can be ready to breed by the time they are 4 months old. But you will want to wait until they are at least 8 months of age for breeds like the Katjang. However you must realise that when and if you decide to breed at such a young age you should consider that such young does bred are still growing kids themselves and will need very close monitoring of their feed rations. You must also play close attention to their overall condition as they progress along their pregnancy.
Maturation of any Doe will naturally vary by their genetic/breed background. You cannot expect a smaller breed like a Katjang to be bred to a Boer of a similar age of let’s say at 10 months. We usually let our kids grow up and age until at least 12 months before breeding them in their 2nd year. Talk to the breeders and farmers in your area and I can tell you that there will be mostly different answers.
You will have to then use your own best judgement and common sense to make a decision based on the size and maturity of your own does.
Our first kid of the year Barbados Blackbelly Sheep kid born in the very early morning of 1st January 2009. Weighing in at 1.67kg. What a fantastic start to a new year! Happy New Year!
We will soon be getting to follow up on our last visit to Boer Bok Stud in WA Australia. Beth, Alan and Peter were very kind and generous enough to offer us some of their Boers to help improve our bloodlines here in Sarawak. The visit to them in Busselton was a real eye opener and an excellent learning experience. I got to watch their Boers eating leisurely on their green pastures while it was raining and it was very cold! The opposite would happen here in East Malaysia. They would be bleating and running for the goat houses at the slightest sign of rain.
Very Nice Example Of A Red Boer Buck
More Happy Expecting Doe’s
This book is crammed full of unromanticised technical information while managing to remain very readable. There is a dry sense of humour that accompanies the descriptions of the inevitable difficulties in keeping goats which is heartening! The text covers the history of goat husbandry along with issues relating to housing, feeding, breeding, dairy and meat farming, harness goats, diseases, laws and even intermittent insights into goat psychology.
Nairobi and Sumatra are 2 Anglo Nubian bucks that joined us a few weeks back after arriving from Queensland Australia. Sumatra is a direct line descendant of the original imports from England into Australia in 1956 (known as Heritage Anglo Nubian’s) and as a matter of interest these Anglo Nubian’s are recognised by the Rare Breeds Trust of Australia – endangered category 2.
When Nairobi was still in Australia
When Sumatra was still in Australia
Big Thank You! to Glenys, Mel and Sam atCartref Goat Industries for trusting me with such fine boys. I look forward in getting your help and expertise in further improving the status of the breed here in East Malaysia.
Should have posted this before the ‘Jamnapari Doe & 5 Week Old Kid‘ post.
This is a mistake many ‘newbie’ farmers make where although they know they need and should use a sound Buck, they end up investing in an inferior specimen. You need and want to get the best possible Buck (naturally within a reasonable price range) as you know that most times the kids will resemble the buck more than the doe. The Buck has the potential to easily influence the genetics of a few hundred kids before you retire him. Remember, and refer to this post,YOUR BUCK IS HALF YOUR HERD.
He should have good size and bone, be vigorous and active, and have a strong and masculine appearance, basically a very handsome bloke. He should have a broad muzzle, straight back, thick chest, and deep hindquarters. He should be standing square on all four feet, and have a healthy shiny coat.
You should purchase your Buck at least one month before breeding time. This will allow time for you to source for the right Buck and also allow him to be adjusted to your farm. This will also give you ample time to keep him quarantined from your herd just to make sure he is not carrying any contagious diseases. You will need approximately one mature Buck for 35-40 does on your farm.
In general, Bucks in temperate areas will become more active and aggressive ‘in the fall’ when most does are cycling. This will vary with some breeds that have the ability to breed ‘out of season’. Bucks from breeds such as the Boer are likely to be able to mate all year, but will tend to be the most aggressive in the fall. Bucks born and bred in tropical climates such as here in Sarawak are able to perform all year round.
Prior to breeding you should conduct a physical examination of your Buck for breeding soundness. The examination should include palpation of the testicles and epididymis, visual and hands on checking of feet, legs, and eyes. In addition, be sure to check the body condition of the Buck.
Testicles of the Buck should be firm and be adequate in size. The size of the testicles relates to the ability of the Buck to produce larger quantities of sperm, the bigger the better. This in turn will allow the Buck to breed a larger number of does. The tail of the epididymis is located at the bottom end of the testicle. It should be slightly rounded and free from any hard knots. This is important because the tail of the epididymis is where most of the sperm is reserved for breeding of the does.
When checking the feet and legs there should not be any lameness and evidence of foot rot or foot scald. Pick up the Buck’s feet and check between his toes for any sign of redness or infection. Also check the Billy’s eyes for signs of anemia. The tissues near the eye should be bright pink in color. If they are gray or white in appearance, the Buck probably needs dewormed. Refer to this post ‘ANEMIA’
Checking the body condition of the Buck is easily done by handling him across his top and along his ribs. The Buck should have some extra condition or fat reserves, but not be overly fat. As the breeding season progresses he can lose as much as 15% of his body weight. A too fat Buck may be lazy and not want to breed. These Buck are also more susceptible to heat stress which can decrease sperm quality. On the other hand, a thin Buck will have less energy for breeding and may have a lower sperm quality.
If you have any question of the breeding soundness of your Buck, you can ultimately check his ability to breed does through either a semen evaluation or by marking the does as they are bred. Semen evaluations can be conducted by a veterinarian or by a breeding service, which of the latter there is NONE here in East Malaysia.
You should try marking does (some water based marker will do) as they are bred to check if a Buck is successfully impregnating does. Change colors every 17 days (average length of a doe’s cycle). If the Buck re-mates a large number of does after the first heat cycle, you may want to have his semen evaluated.
Taking this few minutes prior to your breeding season/program can save you a lot of headache, heartache and ‘moneyache’. Keep your Buck in with the does for no more than 45 – 60 days to keep does kidding as a group. Kids born more than 45 days apart will vary in size and be more difficult to manage as you will have more than one weaning group.
The Boer’s are settling down nicely after the long trip from last Friday. There was some panic when i could only find 1 buck amongst the mob when there was supposed to be 2!
One of the Bucks had his ear tags on the wrong ear, right side are for Doe’s and left side for Bucks. Just shows you that sometimes ‘professionals’ in Australia can mess up too.
There was a plan to let the Doe’s rest and acclimatise themselves to the weather, feed and such before mating. Personally i figured it would be at least a dew weeks before the Doe’s became ‘frisky’ but that all changed this evening when i noticed 5 of them suddenly becoming just that with the teaser buck.
Of the many books I have read on goat farming, this one is one of the best by far if you are an inexperienced Goat farmer. Sue Weaver has all the information packed into this small book in a very organized, easy to find manner.