Posts Tagged ‘Breeding Buck’

GOAT FERTILITY CYCLE EXPLAINED

The mechanism which controls the breeding cycle of cows is understood only to a limited extent. With your hand in the cow’s rectum it is possible to feel the whole of the genital organs and the changes that take place in them as the breeding cycle goes along. The mechanism that controls the goats breeding mechanism is believed to be similar.

The sexual cycle of the goat is started by the anterior lobe of the pituitary gland secreting follicle-stimulating hormones which excited the ovaries at each tip of the ‘horns of the womb’, to develop a ‘blister’ inside which one of the store of eggs in the ovary rapidly develops. This blister itself secretes estrogen which in turn produces the symptoms of oestrus or ‘heat’

The womb contracts, the cervix at the mouth of the womb relaxes and opens, the vagina is tensed and lubricated by slime. The goat becomes restless, bleats and wags its tail with a red and swollen vulva often showing signs of discharges. The goat is ready to stand to the male goat billy.

When the blister in the ovaries reaches its full size the pituitary produces luteinizing hormones which causes the blister to burst which in turn causes the mature egg to start its long winding journey down the fallopian tubes. The broken walls of the blister then grow lutein which is a kind of temporary gland that secretes progesterone. Progesterone has an opposite effect to that of oestrogen. Thus the outward symptoms of ‘heat’ subside, the vagina relaxes and dries off, the cervix closes to seal the womb and the womb then relaxes and is richly supplied by blood.

If the mating is successful the egg on its way down the fallopian tubes encounters a sperm and fertilizes and upon arriving at the womb finds its place prepared for it (by the action of the progesterone) settles down and develops. The lutein remains continuing to produces progesterone until the foetus is mature

Upon maturity of the foetus the lutein is reabsorbed and at the stimulus of the pituitary, the ovaries once more secrete estrogen which relaxes the cervix, lubricates the vagina and contracts the womb to expel the kid. When the kid is born the secretion of estrogen stops.

If the egg is not fertilized on its way down the fallopian tubes the lutein persists secreting progesterone for about 10 days after which it shrinks away and the follicle-stimulating hormone is again secreted by the pituitary gland to start the cycle all over again.

TRANSLATE!

THE MANLY GOAT

manly-buck

Breeding idiosyncrasies can work both ways. I have a buck whom I discovered to be shy fellow. Early during my last breeding season I had placed him for the first time with some does which were on heat. Over the next 2 days I observed him waiting for him to get to work, you know do the natural thing. Nothing happen! He was more interested in what was being served for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Thinking that he was not sure of himself being in a new environment I moved him back to his pen and placed a doe on heat with him after he settled down for a day. Again nothing happen.

Next I had his semen examined just to make sure he was fertile and not shooting blanks. The result confirmed the fact that he was in excellent health and fully fertile, in theory he was ready. Now I had to figure out what was going on in his head that was interfering with his breeding abilities. I was worried i just might have a gay Goat.

On the next occasion I choose another doe on heat and place her with him in his pen. I sat down and settled down to find out what was problem. After watching the proceedings with this rather amorous doe, I came to one conclusion in the first hour. He was just too scared of the doe. Why? The answer is simple.

Being a buck which was selected from a very young age to be groomed and developed as a stud, the only friends he had was us, us as in humans. Staying alone in his pen with only us to fuss and take care of him he got so used to recognising us as his friends, as a part of his herd. That plus him being a virgin untested with no exposure to mating does it was no wonder when he felt intimidated by does who suddenly wanted to become up close and personal.

The next time I had a doe on heat I brought him out of his pen. I next held on to the doe while he walked around, initially ignoring her, and got used to her. In twenty minutes he, after much lip curling and sniffing, suddenly he got randy figured out what was his mission all about. I did this repeatedly several times with him, every time holding on to the doe and letting him be the boss and do the bossing. I am happy to report that he is just raring to go whenever needed and every time his mission accomplished.

BREEDING YOUNG DOES

jamnapari-kids

In theory young Does can be ready to breed by the time they are 4 months old. But you will want to wait until they are at least 8 months of age for breeds like the Katjang. However you must realise that when and if you decide to breed at such a young age you should consider that such young does bred are still growing kids themselves and will need very close monitoring of their feed rations. You must also play close attention to their overall condition as they progress along their pregnancy.

Maturation of any Doe will naturally vary by their genetic/breed background. You cannot expect a smaller breed like a Katjang to be bred to a Boer of a similar age of let’s say at 10 months. We usually let our kids grow up and age until at least 12 months before breeding them in their 2nd year. Talk to the breeders and farmers in your area and I can tell you that there will be mostly different answers.

You will have to then use your own best judgement and common sense to make a decision based on the size and maturity of your own does.

BOER'S SETTLING DOWN

The Boer’s are settling down nicely after the long trip from last Friday. There was some panic when i could only find 1 buck amongst the mob when there was supposed to be 2!

One of the Bucks had his ear tags on the wrong ear, right side are for Doe’s and left side for Bucks. Just shows you that sometimes ‘professionals’ in Australia can mess up too.

There was a plan to let the Doe’s rest and acclimatise themselves to the weather, feed and such before mating. Personally i figured it would be at least a dew weeks before the Doe’s became ‘frisky’ but that all changed this evening when i noticed 5 of them suddenly becoming just that with the teaser buck.

YOUR BUCK IS HALF YOUR HERD

A buck can ruin your herd just as fast as a good carefully chosen buck can improve it. Using him just because he ‘looks good’ does not mean he should be used for breeding. When you are ready to get a buck, be prepared to do some homework and leg work searching for that quality. If you were in Australia locating a quality registered buck of your choice breed is not a big challenge. Here in Sarawak where locally born registered animals are non existent then a good drive around will have to do searching for what you need. Don’t be afraid to ask stupid questions.

You want to make sure you see at least the buck’s mother, and possibly the father, of any buck you decide on. Look at the mothers udder, because is she has a “bad” udder, those udder genes will be passed on through her son and you really do not want that. Look at both parents conformation. Are they within the requirements of the particular breed you are aiming for? Look at the other offspring the father had sired, is the quality also there? Does he have any birth records? What was his weight at birth? Did the breeder keep any records of his weight gained as he aged?

Remember, that Buck you chose represents your future herd.